July 2005July 25, 2005 1:54 am

I am typing from Tokyo while waiting for my connecting flight to Chicago. I have not quite figured out the keyboard, however, since it is a bit different from American ones. I accidentally keep pushing some button that changes the letters to Japanese characters. I also cannot seem to find the apostrophe. Oh, well.

I slept most of the way from Jakarta to Tokyo since it was an evening flight. I left Jakarta after 10pm. The taxi ride to the airport was not bad at all since it was Sunday (less than an hour). I did have to pay extra for several tolls along the way, though. For anyone going to or leaving Indonesia, the airport exit tax has increased from last year. It is now Rp. 100.000. I did not have to pay the fiscal tax, thank goodness, since I was only in Indonesia about one month. That tax is really expensive, especially for students on a limited budget.

Saturday was my last focus group. It was supposed to be a mixed religion group, but only the Muslims showed up. We are not sure what happened to the three Christians who were supposed to come. We think it might have been the traffic or long distance to the discussion site. At least I know next time that it is probably better for me to go to them than vice-versa. The discussion was pretty lively and interesting, so all was not lost. I do think, however, that the more discussions I have, the more confused I get about what my core research questions and methods will be in the future.

I spent Sunday packing, but did spend some time at Plaza Indonesia. It is a huge mall complex with an upper-class air to it. It was a bit strange to see really high-end stores (in general and specifically in Indonesia), but it was fun to people watch.

Piece of advice to fellow travellers in case they do not already know: If you order vegetarian meals, ask to get different kinds of veggie meals at different segments of the flights. I ordered Asian Vegetarian the entire way and well, it gets pretty boring with the same thing each time. There is not a lot of variety, so it would have been better for me to get a regular veggie meal, an Asian veggie one, and something else if possible. Small thing, but adds up over the course of a day or more of travelling.

I will be back in the States in no time and in Ann Arbor later next week after my family reunion at the Ozarks.

July 2005July 21, 2005 9:59 am

My time here in Jakarta is almost up. Today is Thursday and I leave on Sunday evening. I hope to have an interview with a former elections observer tomorrow, but not sure if that will actually happen. Saturday is the third and last focus group.

I thought an interesting addition to my other postings would be a section called “taxi talk.” Taxi drivers tend to be an interesting bunch of folks to talk with, and Indonesian drivers never let me down. Many times I don’t even start the conversation, so most of the comments below are unsolicited:

* “Education should be free for all school children. Otherwise, the rich stay rich and the poor stay poor.”
* “My brother lives in Miami. Four months now. Have you been there before? Do you live close?”
* Upon seeing a completely burnt mini-bus (only the frame remained) in the middle of the street: “That’s what happens when you put the engine beneath your feet.”
* “We taxi drivers don’t mind picking up Americans since they are usually respectful. We don’t like picking up Malaysian men because they can be rude. One man grabbed my arm before and called me stupid when he thought I made a mistake. We never pick up black men [Africans].” When I asked why, the taxi driver responded, “Drugs or drug dealers.” (!!!)
* “Corruption is a big problem in our country. It was easier under Suharto, but now there is corruption at every level, everywhere.” (!!!)
* “You’re too young to be in a Ph.D. program.”
* “Where is your husband?”

July 2005July 19, 2005 5:55 am

I haven’t been able to post news to this blog in the past few days, so here goes…

Last Friday was the final day of the conference at the University of Indonesia, Depok. Things went really well. I learned a lot and met many nice people. The dorm room turned out to be less expensive than what had been originally told to conference participants, so that was a bonus. I was picked up by one of the Freedom Institute office staff by motorbike in the afternoon. On the way back, it started to sprinkle. In less than five minutes, it became a torrential downpour. We first tried having him wear the rain poncho and I put my head underneath the back flap. This was really scary since we were weaving in and out of traffic and I had to keep the poncho over my head, thus preventing any visuals of the street or traffic. At one point, we went through a really flooded area, where my legs got completely soaked. We then stopped off on the side of the road thinking we could wait it out a bit. We waited and then when the rain had let up a little, we made a go for it. As soon as we were back on the road, the rain came down even heavier than before! The rain actually hurt as it came down while we tried to get through the traffic. Each time things got worse, all I could was laugh. I kept telling the driver that we were on an adventure! At least he was laughing, too. At this point, it was useless to have a rain poncho on. We were both soaked, as well as my backpacks. The water was just not draining at all. And this is supposed to be the dry season! We finally made it back to the Freedom Institute. I rinsed off in the bathroom and changed into less-wet clothes. The flood water was really dirty unfortunately. Traffic was awful since cars and motorbikes kept stalling. I heard that another office person had gone on an errand and his entire car - floors and seats - got wet. In some places, the water was past one’s knees. The main reason that the water did/does not drain is because the drains are full of garbage. They are too blocked up and garbage does not absorb water like a sponge. Jakarta came to a standstill a few years ago when there were really heavy rains and flooding, so the government is aware of the problem, but many say there is not enough money or infrastructure in place to fix it.

Saturday was much more low key. I stayed in and worked (i.e., read) all day.

Sunday was my second focus group. This time we had a group of older Muslim men from various backgrounds discuss my research questions. They got off to a slow start, but the discussion eventually became quite animated. The only difficulty for me was sitting in a room full of thick cigarette smoke since they liked to smoke during the discussion, unlike the first group which had women. I usually sit on the side and take notes while the moderator runs the show, but this group, more than the first, would look over at me every so often to see what my reactions were to their comments. There was a critical comment of the U.S. government part-way through the discussion and they all turned to me, smiled, and said “Sorry, sorry, Mrs.” I said everything was okay and not to worry. I appreciated their honesty. Later during lunch, several of the men said that the American people (i.e., students like myself) were different from the American government and its policies. The latter being the one responsible for social and political problems in different contexts.

After the focus group, I decided to treat myself to a creambath and trim. I was actually surprised to see men at the beauty salon because there are usually only women at the salons in Yogyakarta. I made a comment about this and one the men said “It’s already 2005 and it’s Jakarta.” Go figure. One guy washed my hair and then another trimmed off the split ends. A few people watched while he tried to comb my hair out (I usually use a big brush; he didn’t). My hair is long and curly so it took quite some time. The hairwasher then opened four little bags of goopy avocado cream and massaged it into my scalp and hair. The avocado stuff is best for thick, curly hair, which can get really dry (despite the humidity!). My hair was then steamed and later rinsed. I had to keep insisting that I did not want my hair blowdried, though. I just put it in a simple braid afterwards. I explained that my hair would totally puff out if they used the blowdryer, but I think it was part of the “package” and so they felt it was mandatory. They seemed to be okay after I explained a bit more.

Yesterday, Monday, was crazy for me because I thought my laptop had died. Nothing like being dependent on technology and then it failing you. It turned out that one of the cables was not working and the battery had been drained. I’m now using a new cord and recharged the battery, so things are cool. I’ve been trying to back up my data in various ways, so hopefully all works out in the end.

Time is going so quickly. I leave Jakarta in five days! Wow! There are some things I wanted to do, but will have to wait until later in the fall semester or January when I return again. For instance, one of my professors and I are going to work on a project which involves some survey questions, but there isn’t enough time to get the questions onto this July’s survey, so we’ll have to wait a little bit.

I am trying to schedule a third focus group for this coming Saturday. Wish me luck!

July 2005, Pictures 5:19 am

MadrasahChildren

July 2005, PicturesJuly 15, 2005 10:20 am

PrayerRoom

July 2005, Pictures 9:53 am

UniversityofIndonesiaPond

July 2005, Pictures 9:40 am

UniversityofIndonesia

July 2005, Pictures 9:35 am

U-MEventInJakarta

July 2005, Pictures 9:00 am

July 2005July 13, 2005 8:36 am

The above is a book title that I happened across and it made me smile.

More keynotes and panels and networking today. Things are going quite well actually. For example, I had a lovely chat over lunch with Professor Donald Emmerson, Stanford University. I’ve also met up with students from various Indonesian, European, and Australian universities and a few from the U.S., namely the University of Wisconsin-Madison. All of the discussions so far are thought-provoking. One of the hot topics at the conference is “decentralization.”

The weather is nicer today. Yesterday it started to rain heavily in the late afternoon. After the rain stopped, I headed back to the dormitory. On my way there, I saw young children out and about with large, colorful umbrellas. They were offering to help those without umbrellas for a small fee. A nice, young man gave a snack box to one of the little girls and didn’t ask for any service in return.

I’ve met several people who say that my next trip, whether for fun or work, should be to Sulawesi.

Slept better last night after purchasing some mosquito repellent. *smile*

Highlight of the day: understanding more Indonesian than I thought I would!